The Coffee Cart

Coffee Maker Watts

A.C. load control. What is the cheapest diy heat element control.?

I have two heaters from popcorn makers for a total of 2640 watts. I need to vary the power from full on to full off, and I need to do it on the cheap. I plan on running them in parallel but I am not sure what difference it makes. This is going to be a DIY coffee roaster.
I have two heaters from popcorn makers for a total of 2640 watts. I need to vary the power from full on to full off, and I need to do it on the cheap. I plan on running them in parallel but I am not sure what difference it makes. This is going to be a DIY coffee roaster. I cannot seem to find any triacs bigger than 1500 watts and I have no idea what a gate control is. Thanks for the answers.
Never thought of the supply. Looks like I am adding a 30 amp breaker and some #10 wire to the price list.

How do you plan on powering the device? In the US, the standard 120 V outlet is only rated for 15 amps.

2640 watts ÷ 120 volts = 22 amps

This is even too much for a 20 amp outlet.

Please update your question with the utilization voltage.

Here is an explanation of what happens if you connect the two in series. I will assume the two heating elements are exactly the same size.

2640 watts ÷ 2 elements = 1320 watts per element.

1320 watts ÷ 120 volts = 11 amps.

120 volts ÷ 11 amps = 10.9 ohms

Placing the two elements in series give you 10.9 Ω + 10.9 Ω = 21.8 Ω

The resulting current draw is 120 volts ÷ 21.9 Ω = 5.5 amps

120 volts x 5.5 amps = 660 watts.

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How about wiring the equipment for 3-wire, 240 volt operation. Each heating element can be operated separately at 120 volts on opposite legs of the 120/240 V service . You can operate either one or both of the elements at a time. If you need more control over the power level, you could add a 120 volt, 15 amp diode to each element with a switch that would bypass the diode. With the diode in the circuit you would basically feed the element with a half-sine wave resulting in half power. Wiring both heating elements this way gives you the following control.

0 watts = everything off
660 watts = one element with diode
1320 watts = one element full power
1980 watts = one element full power, one element with diode
2640 watts = both elements full power

Disclaimer: I’m not sure why you are trying to build this contraption, however anything you build is not UL approved and would be considered unacceptable for commercial purposes. It is very possible that you will be building yourself an unsafe appliance. Proceed with caution.

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